Surfing is a very popular sport in the Basque Country. As soon as we mention the discipline, we think of Biarritz. Didn’t we just watch the 2019 longboard world championships there, a short time ago? It was in fact on this coastal town that the first surfboard landed, in 1956, on the occasion of the filming of the American movie “The Sun also rises” directed by Henry King, but Biarritz isn’t the only surfing spot in the Basque Country. We’re also talking about Anglet, Bidart, Guethary and Hendaye on the French side, and San Sebastian, de Mundaka, Sopelana, Zarautz and Punta Galea on the Spanish side of .

Surfing, an activity thoroughly analyzed by scientists

This nautical activity counts among the most stylish. What’s more, it’s growing at international level. It is the subject of the World Championship Tour (WCT) and many other types of competition. Not only is diversifying, it’s also attracting a growing number of fans . It’s no doubt for these and many other reasons that scientists are so interested in this sport. Here is what researchers have to say about surfing:

Scientific advice

Surfing is an activity that requires a high level of physical commitment, good balance and agility. It therefore requires a great deal of preparation. This includes technical-tactical training. This sport, which is highly linked to the environment, consists of a series of intermittent efforts of varying intensity. While practicing this sport, the athlete regularly takes time out to recover from the waves and the wind.

The way surfing works

Surfing involves gliding over waves. Surfers generally stand on a board, but more precisely, they adopt three types of gesture or position during a process that is repeated throughout a session.

  • The surfer adopts a recumbent position as he paddles to the breaking point of the wave.
  • Once thrown out to sea, he gives a powerful stroke to enter the swell.
  • As soon as he’s back on the wave, he gets up quickly and then continues his movements until the wave breaks on the sand.

The surf lifestyle

The aqua-snowboarder or surfer equips himself with equipment, the main one being the board. Beginners take courses. Learn about the discipline. Find out about equipment. They store around (physical or virtual) for it. As an ally of the weatherman, he regularly checks the weather, particularly wind strength, swell height, wave movement and temperature. He keeps himself in shape. He’s always on the lookout for the best spots. This even leads him to travel, and travel means gastronomy. Do you surf? If you land in San Sebastian, for example, you’ll have the pleasure of tasting the tapas that the locals call pinxos.

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